The European Union is developing draft legislation to enhance textile production and labeling sustainability. Given the EU’s status as the largest consumer market for textiles globally, this legislation is expected to have substantial implications both within the EU and internationally, as other countries may adopt similar regulations to improve the sustainability of the textile value chain.

Key Provisions

1- Life-Cycle Assessment Requirement

Each textile item must undergo a life-cycle assessment using the Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEF CR).

2- Producer Responsibility

Textile producers will be responsible for providing evidence in accordance with the PEF CR.

3- Assessment Criteria

  •    Current PEF CR does not account for microplastics and plastic waste.
  •    The full environmental impact of fossil-fuel fibers is not recognized.
  •    The positive environmental impacts of natural fibers, such as cotton, which are renewable, recyclable, and biodegradable, are not adequately acknowledged.

Implications

1- Potential Bias

As currently structured, the PEF framework may incorrectly assess man-made fibers as more sustainable than natural fibers.

2- Impact on Producers

The onus will be on textile producers to capture and present environmental impact data according to the PEF CR.

Conclusion

If not amended to address its shortcomings, the draft legislation could lead to misleading sustainability assessments, potentially disadvantaging natural fibers and failing to account for critical environmental factors.