Warp knitting machines can be classified into different types depending on machine types.
Tricot warp knitting
The face has fine lengthwise ribs; the reverse has crosswise ribs. Complex patterns can produce on some machines, and for added texture or color some can incorporate a weft insertion (extra yarn inserted crosswise).
Tricot warp knitting uses two sets of yarn/threads resulting in fine ribs running vertically on the front face and horizontally on the back. In tricot knitting, lightweight GSM of less than four ounces per square yard can be made,
Tricot word comes from French which means knit. Basically it is used to cover everything related to produce fabric with the knitting process . 4th century A.D its origin go back when ancient Greece used this type of fabric for ceremonial. After that invented the first machine in 1589 by an English man William Lee to produce a fabric.
Some lengthwise stretch; but almost no crosswise stretch. Usually drapey and soft (cut edges tend to curl).
Tricot best use
Tricot is very common in undergarments. Besides traditional use for lingerie and lining, can be used for dresses and blouses. It’s essential to assess the stretch of a particular tricot for a given project
A tricot knitted fabric is used for activewear, especially when made with Nylon Spandex or Polyester Spandex blends, which allow the fabric to breathe and stretch with the body providing comfort and ease of movement.
Raschel warp knitting machines
The raschel-knitting machine produces a wide variety of fabrics and can incorporate conventional or novelty yarns, thereby creating interesting textures and surface designs. Knits can be highly patterned, fine and lacey, and even piled.
Redgate in 1855, combine the principle of circular knit to warp. Its name started after French actress Élisabeth Félice Rachel used shawls. Wilhelm Barfuss in 1859 improved the machine design to create the Raschel knitting machines
In Raschel knitting courser yarn is used, and recently use of staple yarn has increased. In it, needles move in the ground plate of steel called a trick plate. At the top of the plate to the verge introduced the level of the loop on the needle Shanker. The loop is produced and prevented to move upward when the needle rises in the fabric and pulls downward the Shanker between needles. In the knitting cycle, needles start to lower when the next loop just has been cast off and the new loop joins the needle hooks to produce fabric.
Raschel knitting properties
Runs the gamut from dense and compact to open and lofty; can be either stable or stretchy, and single-faced or reversible.
Almost any garment. assessing the amount of stretch, give, and recovery in a raschel knit is essential since its nature is so diverse. Raschel knits do not significantly stretch and are often bulky, consequently, they are often used as an unlined material for jackets, coats, straight dresses, and skirts.
Raschel knitted fabric usually uses spun poly or filament yarns of different weights and types. Most raschel fabrics can be identified by their intricate construction. It is mostly used in sportswear and athletic wear. Also, as good draping quality, and is mostly used in material coats, dresses, and lingerie.
Crochet warp knitting machines
In crochet, knitting uses a pair of long needles to make loops and also moves these loops from one needle to another keeping stitches in a needle for one line length. This added to single hook the loop together as one piece. Crochet is a modernized form that started in 1820, and becoming more popular in England. Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere is first invented with Irish Crochet, Also published patterns in 1846 the first book on crochet.
- In a wrap knitting machine, we use threads course-wise direction and fabric in a width-wise direction. While in tricot use compound needles. In crochet, the warp yarn is fed to the needle guide bar in shogging and swing movement. In it machine is derived through a toothed belt, guide lever gives the motion to guide the bar to and fro for weft yarn. Also, a warp yarn guide is given to and fro and zigzag.
- A single horizontal needle bar is used for a reciprocating motion to operate individual tricked latch, embroidery, and carbine needle.
- There is no sinker but a fixed horizontal bar in knock over the verge to prevent fabric to move out.
- in the closed loop, the wrap and weft yarn is controlled separately. Each needle is lapped from a yarn warp whose one needle overlaps and underlap is fixed shog. Also, it is controlled by an eccentric cam while up and down the shaft is controlled through a rotating rocker shaft.
- The warp yarn should be placed on the lower front side and weft at the top and backward to the machine is placed, and the carrier bar is clipped to the spring loaded and inlay bar above to needle bar and shagging as one link from the course from the pattern. A chain around the drum at one side. Furthermore, on the machine usually two guide bars and up to sixteen-weft inlay bar which is mechanically controlled. But in the modern era, electronic control is used.
- Special fancy attachment is used to get fancy fabric design also, it is cut uncut fringe edge, pile braiding, snail shell, etc.
Main parts of the crochet machine
- Size lever
- Main shaft
- Shogging motion lever
- Warp yarn guide bar
- Weft yarn guide bar
- Needle bar
- Pressure roller
- Ratchet wheel
- Take up roller
The machine is driven by an electric motor and power is transferred through a toothed belt and gears. The weft yarn guide gives to and fro motion and also shogging motion. also, the shogging bar gives motion to the weft yarn guide bar. The needle and warp yarn guide bar also gives motion to and fro and shogging. Also, the take-up roller has a ratchet wheel and pawl motion which stretched and collects the fabric.
Crochet knitting usage
Crochet cloth is especially employed in blankets, scarves, and lots of articles of covering.
Milanese warp knitting machine
Made from 2 sets of yarns diagonally knitted. The face contains a fine vertical rib; therefore, the reverse includes a diagonal structure.
Lightweight, drapey, sleek texture, extraordinarily run-resistant.
However historically used for gloves and lingerie, soft blouses, it makes lovely and eveningwear. Maybe to find it a little difficult, but worth looking for. Milanese is stronger, more expensive than tricot, and more stable, smoother, and, hence, is used in better lingerie. Milanese is obsolete now virtually.